The perfect shirtdress? Closet Core Kalle

 

Styled with Quay sunglasses & Birkenstock Arizona sandals (Amazon affiliate links)

I recently sewed a second version of the Closet Core Kalle pattern. I had bought the most amazing plaid linen from Blackbird Fabrics and I wanted to get it sewn up before the end of summer.

Pattern Description

With a loose, body-skimming silhouette and a number of interchangeable features, the Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress is the ultimate in chic, easy dressing.

View A is cropped with a wide-faced hem, View B is a tunic length shirt inspired by classic men's oxfords, and View C is a stylish shirtdress with a high-low hem. All versions feature a subtly curved yoke, short dolman sleeves with arm cuffs, and a dramatically shaped hem.

Personalize your Kalle with a standard or band collar, an optional breast pocket, an inverted or box pleat, and button, popover or hidden placket.

Sizing & Fit

Sizes: 0-20 (print and PDF) and 14-32 (PDF) 

I made the size 0 with no fit alterations for both the top and the dress. I've heard a lot of people say that both the top and dress come up short but for me both were perfect. I am 4'9" though...YMMV.

Fabric/Notions

As stated above the dress uses a 100% plaid linen that I bought from Blackbird Fabrics. The top used leftover pieces of cotton double gauze that I purchased from Stylemaker Fabrics.

For notions, I used a lightweight interfacing and buttons from my stash.

Instructions & Construction Details

Because there are no sleeves with cuffs, the Kalle is a relatively easy for a shirt pattern. For both of my versions I did the full visible button placket.

I do not like the collar/stand instructions. I prefer to:
    • staystitch the neckline before i start sewing
    • attach the collar/stand right after finishing the shoulders/yoke
    • I sew the collar together and baste to the stand
    • stitch the stand/facing, sandwiching the collar in between
    • then sew the attached stand/collar to the neckline
    • I DO NOT clip the neckline before sewing the stand. I wait until after it's sewn
    • I turn the stand facing to the inside of the garment and topstitch it down
I do like how the hem uses a facing or bias tape to finish the curved hem. I'm ok with the dramatic curviness of the hem on these two garments but i do think that it's kind of a specialty look and not one i want to make over and over again without changing the bottom to be more of a normal shirt-tail hem.


Here's my latest makes video where I talk about the Kalle and show how I style it.

Would I Sew It Again?

I do like this pattern. I would possibly make one or two more as is, but I'd be much more likely to sew it again if I changed the shape of the hem as detailed above. It's a nice simple shirt pattern that gives good results. It remains popular in the sewing community and I can see why.

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