Tuesday, January 08, 2019

Winter Handmade Capsule 2019: Tops

I have selected 14 tops for my Winter Handmade Capsule: 3 shirts, 6 sweaters/sweatshirts, and 5 tees.

Other posts in the series:
Intro
Bottoms
Outer Layers
Dresses + Shoes

Shirts

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Chambray Shirt: This was on my winter sewing plans list. I used McCalls 6649 OOP and some tencel chambray fabric I bought from Joanns. I cut a size 8 and it mostly fits well but I made some adjustments for next time, widening the upper back and the hips slightly, as both are tight on this version. I followed the class The Classic Tailored Shirt for construction and I'd highly recommend it. All of my seams are flat felled, including the sleeve cap, and I'm really proud of how the shirt looks inside and out. I've worn this several times already and it's a wardrobe staple.

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Buffalo Plaid Shirt: This was on my Make Nine. I used some cotton flannel that had been in stash for 10+ years and New Look 6561. I sewed a size 8 and only made length alterations and the fit is really good. It's a very loose relaxed fit shirt so sizing down was the right call. I again used the craftsy class for construction and I changed some of the details, like I added a yoke lining so that the inside finish would be clean. I also very carefully matched the plaids and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The only thing I don't like is the tie cuffs. I thought they would make a cute detail but the instructions were a bit vague so my execution wasn't great and I should have shortened the sleeves slightly more b/c the ties get in the way. If I had it to do over again I would put on a regular cuff but it's fine as is. I will probably make this pattern again. It's perfect for an oversized button-down in a drapey fabric, like a Rails-esque shirt.

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Black/White Check Shirt: I've blogged this one so I won't go over it again but I will add that I really love this shirt. I get so much wear out of the cropped length with high-waisted bottoms. It'll be a great piece to layer or to wear on its own when the weather is a little warmer.

Sweaters/Sweatshirts

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Cognac Cabled Pullover: The Kerrytown that I knit last year is one of my favorite sweaters. I just love the color and texture. Madelinetosh DK has not turned out to be one of my favorite yarns unfortunately because it's heavy and it pills very easily but the colors are so beautiful I almost don't care. I always feel like it's a good outfit day when I pull out this sweater.

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Colorwork Yoke Pullover: I completed the Sunset Highway pullover in 2017 and it is also one of my favorite sweaters. It's a perfect lightweight layer that pairs nicely with button-up shirts or turtlenecks or I can wear it alone.

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Blue Rib Turtleneck: I've blogged about the Neenah turtleneck before, so I will add that I wear this more than I thought I would. It's a good basic. It is, however, exceedingly hot and best kept for the coldest days.

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Olive Cropped Hoodie: The Brunswick Pullover was also on my Make Nine. I used olive eco sweatshirt fleece from Style Maker Fabrics and I bought some premade ribbing and cuffs to go with it. I used a scrap of scuba from Joann's for the hood lining and pocket contrast and I used an unused shoelace for the drawstring. I cropped this hoodie quite a bit and I like the effect, however I should have shortened the kangaroo pocket because it looks out of proportion on. Otherwise I'm really happy with this make. I've worn it once and the hood is nice and large. It's great for keeping out the wind when you need it. I would love to sew the other version with the cowl and button plackets at some point.

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Gold Velvet Funnel Neck: I have sewn Simplicity 8529 several times but I haven't blogged this version. I made the funnel neck with slits out of some stretch velvet from Joann's. This was my first time doing the version with slits and I had read online that the slits were too deep so I lowered them. However I overdid it a little and I wish they went slightly higher. I also used knit interfacing on the funnel neck because I worried it would be too floppy without and even stabilized it's still a bit limp. I can't quite put my finger on it but this isn't my favorite version. Upon reflection I don't think the funnel neck really works for me. In the future I would stick to the crew neck or elongate the neckband to make a turtleneck rather than doing the funnel neck again.

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Floral/Stripe Sweatshirt: I've blogged the Ali Sweatshirt in the past. My verdict is I like this one but I don't absolutely love it. It's great for weekend loungewear but the excess bagginess keeps it from being a favorite.

Tees

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Red/White Stripe Tee: I bought the Sewaholic Renfrew back when it was all the rage and I sewed several versions in my previous sewing life. I got it back out to make this tee. I've slowly learned over time that I need a broad back adjustment so I think I added 1 inch to the upper back and the fit is spot on. I also wanted a normal tee so I eliminated the cuffs and hem band. I was having a lazy day so I zigzagged the edges instead of coverstitching them. I'm pretty sure the fabric is a bamboo knit that I got from Style Maker Fabrics. To be honest this wasn't my best work but it is a perfectly functional basic tee.

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Olive Tee: I tried out the Molly Top from Sew Over It. If I recall correctly I moved the neckline in a bit because it seemed too wide. I'm pretty sure I cut out the size 8. I used rayon jersey from fabric.com. I was unhappy with the quality of this fabric. it wrinkles easily and it's thin and doesn't seem like it will last very long. but again, a perfectly functional basic tee at the moment.

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Striped Crop Turtleneck: These last 3 were sewn during my recent holiday sewing binge. I sewed these in tandem as a batch and I learned that I hate batch sewing. Even though it's technically more efficient I find that I get tired of repeating the same steps and I pay less attention to detail when I'm sewing multiple garments at once. I'd rather just make one t-shirt from start to finish even if it takes me longer. This is the free Yoko Top pattern from Jalie. It seems to be making the rounds these days on Instagram and I can see why. It's extremely easy to put together. I cut the size R and shortened it a lot for a cropped fit. I find that super boxy tops can overwhelm my petite frame if they aren't cropped. The only thing I dislike about this pattern is the 1/4" seam allowances. I prefer 3/8" for a little extra security and if I make another one I'll likely add 1/8" to the seam allowances. I used a microstripe bamboo jersey for this one and I don't like how floppy the turtleneck is. Otherwise it's great, though admittedly I haven't worn it yet.

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White Turtleneck: A basic top that was also on my Make Nine. The pattern is Burda 6367, a basic slightly dropped shoulder tee out of bamboo jersey from D&H Fabrics. I decided to go with the turtleneck for winter but again, it turned out floppier than I'd really like. Actually I've concluded that I don't really like bamboo or rayon jersey for tees. I hate sewing it and it tends to be too lightweight to hold its shape. In the future I will be looking for more natural fibers for tees like organic cotton and linen or hemp. The fit on this is pretty good but I need to go back and shorten the sleeves and body length a little more. I'm sure this will become a TNT pattern. it's an easy fit tee and there are options for a normal neckband and bishop sleeves, which I would like to try at some point.

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Stripe 3/4 Sleeve Boxy Tee: Lastly we have another Mandy Boat Tee. I made one of these last summer and didn't particularly like it but that was back when it was only one size. I tried out the new version and made the smallest size. I also cropped the shirt and did 3/4 sleeves. This is probably my favorite tee in the capsule. I haven't worn it yet but I'm very excited to try it out. It has just the right level of boxy-ness that I like and the length is perfect. The fabric is organic bamboo jersey from fabric.com and I would say that out of all my tees, this is the best application of the super drapey fabric.

Thanks for sticking with me through this super long post and I'll be back tomorrow to show pants and skirts.

2 comments:

  1. Your tops all look great! I especially like the chambray shirt and the Kerry Town sweater. I also love Pam Howard's shirt making class. I've watched and sewn along with it a couple of times.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks! I've watched some of her tailored jacket classes too. maybe i'll get brave and try one this year.

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