Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Like a Boss

I've been wanting to try out the wide-leg pants trend in a low-stress way. Since my return to sewing garments, pretty much the only thing I've learned for certain is that I have a really weird-shaped ass that is difficult to fit. I bought the Como set from Style Arc, which is a bundle of knit cardigan, tee, and pants patterns. I assumed that elastic-waist wide-leg pants would probably be less stressful to fit than jeans, and I was mostly right.

Como Pants

First, I will briefly go over the pattern details. Style Arc gives you 3 sizes in different PDFs but their patterns aren't nested. I printed out the size 6 pants and just cut from the PDF since it's not multi-sized. The pattern did have the stitching lines drawn in, which was nice. The instructions were brief but I had no trouble deciphering them. The only thing I did wrong was that I accidentally stitched the waistband on inside out, so you can see my triple zig zag stitch on the outside where I attached the elastic to the waistband. Fortunately the fabric is textured and dark so you can't really see it.

Como Pants

I used a rayon/poly ponte I bought at Joann's. I have not been overly impressed with the fabric quality at Joann's but this was actually really nice. It has kind of a herringbone texture and it's thick and warm. I would definitely use it again.

Como Pants

Now onto the fitting details. I broke down and bought a flexible ruler so that I could try the tin-foil crotch method. I scooped the front crotch 1/4", which seems fairly consistent with the other pants I've made so far. But for the back I'm not 100% certain I implemented the curve correctly, because according to my "fishbowl" drawing my rear end is extremely low and curvy. I ended up scooping the back crotch curve 1 3/8". That seems like way too much but it did seem to work pretty well. And most other pants patterns I've tried give me a major wedgie without alterations, so maybe that does make sense.

Because I scooped the back crotch so much I was worried about not having enough fabric to cover my ass (literally) so I added 5/8" to both the front and back side seams. This made my hip curve pretty extreme. I think that is at least contributing to the "hip wings" I'm getting at the pockets. I have no idea how to fix this and still have the pants fit. I would perhaps leave off the pockets next time because I think that would help, but OTOH I really prefer to have pockets. In addition to the hip wings, I have some pull lines on the ass, so I think they are still a little too tight. Also, I forgot to take care of my sway back so there was a ton of fabric pooling at the back waist, but the elastic did help to distribute the fullness somewhat.

Como Pants

I can't remember now how much I shortened the legs but I know it was several inches. I made the full-length pants and blind-hemmed them by machine to wear with flats. When I finished sewing these pants, I was pretty "meh" about them and didn't think they'd get a lot of wear. But then I wore them to work and they were so comfortable. The relaxed fit and wider legs made me feel like a boss. I don't know that I would make a ton of these but I will definitely enjoy wearing the pair I made. And I would definitely consider making a summer pair out of a lighter fabric in the cropped length.

Back tomorrow with a styling post.

Cost Breakdown

  • Time Spent: ~5 hours (prepping PDF/fitting/cutting/sewing)
  • Fabric: $31
  • Pattern: $5.91 (purchased as part of the PDF Como Set)
  • Notions: ~$1

Approximate total: $37.91

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