Friday, May 24, 2013

Tiny Pocket Tanks and Fitting Issues

Tiny Pocket Tank and S1696

The first couple of times I make a new pattern, it's all about the tinkering. If it's something very fitted, I'll usually do a muslin, but for a simple shirt like this, I generally just sew one as a wearable muslin and make adjustments later.

My first version is a size 2 out of the basic linen from fabrics-store.com. Because of linen's tendency to stretch out of shape, i cut the bindings from some ice blue pearl bracelet fabric. i didn't make any alterations to the pattern, even though i had misgivings because i wanted to see how it fit out of the box. the drapey linen is a good choice for the top, but as usual, the armholes on me are high and tight and the bust dart is a little too high.

i like the way the bindings are done but i didn't follow them to the letter. i skipped the grading and clipping and just pressed the curves, understitched, folded and stitched into place. i also did a rolled hem using this craftsy tutorial. it makes for a very clean finish though it is a lot of steps for a hem. i should really suck it up and learn how to use my rolled hem foot someday.

Tiny Pocket Tank and S1696

For my second version, i used some loulouthi voile leftover from my tova tunic. this time, i lowered the armholes by one inch while maintaining the same neckline height. this also shifted the dart down and added to the length as well, but i was ok with having the top slightly longer. the voile is also a good fabric choice. i wore it on a hot day and it was very comfortable. however, the fit is still off. now the bust dart is just a little bit too low and the top strains tightly right where the straps meet the body. you can see it more clearly in the first photo. the problem is present there too, just not as drastically. i'm guessing i need to add fabric there, changing the curve of the armhole, but i don't really know for sure. this is a common problem for me with tops and dresses so if anyone has suggestions, i would very much welcome them. maybe in the future i should trace a larger size for just the armholes perhaps?

Sometimes the tinkering can get out of hand. it seems like every problem i try to fix creates a new one. the only way to find out for sure is to adjust the pattern, make another one, and see if it's any better. i'll save the pants for another post but the fit on that one is *almost* perfect and i'm seriously debating on whether i should resist tinkering further and just go with it.

7 comments:

  1. Don't tinker w/ good fitting pants :) I have finally got the Thurlows worked out for me. It all came down to me re-drafting the waist band.

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  2. That voile tunic is really pretty. Yeah, my fear of having to do a lot of tinkering is partly why I haven't taken up sewing garments... yet.

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  3. It looks like you have some pull marks above your bust - working to underarms on the first tank. I experienced this with the tiny pocket pattern and my remedy was to add 3/8 inch to the width of the pattern (front and back) just under the arm, grading out to above the waist. I never normally need modifications in this area, but did with this pattern. It's such a classic pattern, I like to tinker to make perfect, then make like a dozen of them!

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  4. Great tops! Congratulations on the finishes!

    Esther
    ipatchandquilt dot wordpress dot com
    esthersipatchandquilt at yahoo dot com

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  5. Hi! Those high darts...you can move those down on your pattern tissue so that they point to the apex of your bust. Most patterns have darts placed for very high busts :-) so this is a common issue. Lots of help online, just google moving a bust dart. It's really easy!

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  6. I've not made this particular design, but have had similar issues with pendrell, and to a lesser extent, renfrew and alma. I think the issue for me is a broad back. (although i think the arm hole hits me a little low too.) So it makes sense to me that little betty found a fix by adding width. Good luck!

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  7. Bust darts as written look a little weird on me, in several patterns. I still haven't perfected that detail, either. I have no advice to offer, but I know you'll get it! And I love how persistent you are to figure it out.

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