Monday, August 30, 2010

it's a start

over the weekend, i concentrated on making a pair of pants that fit. I started with Ellen from burdastyle in size 38 and this excellent article from threads on jeans that fit. I used navy cotton stretch twill (which turned out to be the devil).
Ellen from Burdastyle
I began by shortening the pants 7.25" both above and below the knee. the original has straight legs, so i tapered them to 12" at the ankle. i was surprised and happy to see that the pattern didn't really need a lot of modification other than that. The crotch curve was the perfect length, and a much better fit than the pants from Sew U (which i think helps explain why i had so many problems with that pattern).
Ellen from Burdastyle
but that doesn't mean that this one didn't have its challenges. i took out the back darts and drafted a yoke piece. i modified the fly to match the Sew U pattern so that I could use those instructions. in fact, i pretty much followed the Sew U instructions completely, since burda's are so vague. i added pockets and belt loops from Sew U.

i made a muslin and then made more changes. i had major gaposis in the back waist, so i angled and trimmed that seam. i narrowed the thighs a little bit more.
Ellen from Burdastyle
here is where i realize that i hate stretch wovens. my muslin out of denim fit well in the waist, but when i started on the real thing, i often tried on the pants to check the fit, and in the process it stretched out of shape. i had to rip the back yoke and take in that seam even more, and it's still bunchy and wavy in that spot. the waistband is also too loose, and i can't wear the pants without a belt. (btw, i figured out post-picture that i forgot to thread my belt through the back loop and it's fixed now). i'm not sure if this is because of the stretchy fabric or if the waist is just too big.

after all that, i'm wondering if i should have just cut the 36, but for my next non-stretchy pair, i'll cut it as measured and then adjust the seam allowances if i need to. i think there was also a snafu with the back yoke. the back waist sits lower than i'm comfortable with and i get dangerously close to a bad case of plumber butt. i wonder if i went awry when drafting that piece. i also still need to adjust the thigh seams as they didn't really fit together neatly after all the changes and the outer thigh seams are not as smooth as i'd like.

one good thing is that after making a skirt and pants, i still have a lot of fabric left from the 4yds i bought--enough to make at least another skirt or maybe a pair of capris. i guess there are some benefits to being so short.

altogether this is a decent-fitting pair of pants. i have every reason to believe that the next pair will be even better. i feel very Audrey Hepburn in this style. i'm sure that i'll be making these skinny pants again, and i want to try a bootcut pair as well.

1 comment:

  1. Wow, you made pants! Very cool. It sounds like you learned a lot in the process. I'm curious to see how the bootcuts turn out. I like the skinny look, but the bootcut is my preference. Great job!

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